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Whole wheat and rye breads are gaining popularity… Why they taste disappointing

Whole wheat and rye breads are gaining popularity… Why they taste disappointing

Food critic Lee Yong-jae's story
 
Whole wheat and rye breads are gaining popularity… Why they taste disappointing
 

Whole wheat and rye breads are gaining popularity as healthy options. Because of the higher difficulty of milling, white wheat bread was once a more popular choice. Even in Europe, dark, coarse whole wheat bread was considered the preserve of the common people, while soft, white wheat bread was considered the preserve of the nobility. However, the fates of these two breads have now reversed. Whole wheat bread, packed with fiber, omega-3 fatty acids, zinc, and iron, is now more popular than refined carbohydrates like white wheat.

 

But despite its popularity, finding delicious whole wheat bread isn't easy. I try to buy whatever I find online, but it usually feels like chewing on cardboard. Why? Because the process of making whole wheat bread is much more difficult than that of white wheat bread. A wheat grain is composed of the bran (the outer husk), the germ, and the endosperm, which provides nutrients to the germ.


The core of the grain is the endosperm. White wheat flour is made by milling the bran and germ, leaving only the endosperm. Whole wheat flour, on the other hand, grinds both the bran and germ and mixes them with the endosperm. This makes fermentation, a key process in bread making, difficult. The bran and germ granules, larger than the endosperm, physically and enzymatically inhibit the development of gluten, which is responsible for the characteristic chewiness of bread.

 

Meanwhile, whole wheat flour absorbs more water than white flour, resulting in a dough that's both chewier and more crumbly. To overcome this challenge, whole wheat bread requires a natural leavening agent. This increases the dough's acidity and establishes a chemical defense system. To ensure the whole wheat flour fully absorbs water, the dough is often prepared and left to rest the night before baking. Because the dough has a high moisture content, both the baking temperature and baking time must be increased.

 

Even with much more effort than white flour, the result can be disappointing. Compared to white wheat bread, rye bread is much stiffer and crumblier, and its strong whole-wheat flavor is likely to be unpalatable. Rye bread faces a similar challenge. Its lower gluten content compared to wheat makes the dough harder to hold together, and the enzyme amylase inhibits the risen dough.

 

Therefore, rye bread, too, is baked with a high-moisture dough and naturally fermented starter, but like whole wheat bread, it produces a stiff texture and a strong aroma, which can be difficult to work with. Therefore, it's difficult to approach whole wheat or rye bread as simply substituting ingredients for white wheat bread. They should be considered entirely different types of bread, but the breads sold commercially, especially online, don't convey that feeling.

 

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Whole wheat bread is popular these days.

The taste is definitely different from the bread I eat every time.

Eat slowly, it's delicious and savory

 

Think of it as eating mixed grain rice.

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  • Profile Image
    깐데또까
     통밀빵과 호밀빵 맛잇는데~^^
     씹다보면 느껴지는 고소함과 순순한 곡물의 맛이
     느껴지는것 같아요 
    • Profile Image
      하루=즐겁게+행복하게+웃으며✌
      Author
      저도요 씹다보면 고소함이 배로 ㅋㅋ
      이거 정말 맛나죠 
      퇴근길 하나사야겠어요 
  • Profile Image
    지영도영
    통밀 호밀 처음먹을때는 맛이 없는것 같지만 먹다보면 은근 괜찮더라구요
  • Profile Image
    애플
    통밀 호밀빵도 담백하고 먹을수록
    더 맛나네요 요즘 잘 먹고 있어요 ~
  • Profile Image
    말해뭐해
    우리 동네 제과점에서 파는 통밀빵은 맛도 있던데요.
    오래 씹을수록 고소한 맛이 나더라고요.
  • 은하수
    통밀빵 몸에 좋지만 입맛에는 안맞을 수 있겠군요
    천천히 꼭꼭 잘 씹어먹어야겠네요